View Single Post
Old 08-11-2016, 07:48 PM
TopCatGr58's Avatar
TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,620
Hey there Cafe Kid,

I "played" with your photos and found a way to put a direct posting link into the thread so the photos would show vs. just being a Web Link.

Next, those pipes appear to be KERKER, take good care of them, aftermarket pipes are almost non-existent now, nobody makes them for our machines anymore, Mac, Kerker, Jardine, you'll definitely want to save them!!!

Also, someone painted the fenders, they were supposed to be chrome, but like myself, probably painted them to cover severe rusting that developed over the years and exposure.

As was stated, the filter tower is a pressure fit onto the petcock, but just clean it, and then put INLINE filters on the fuel supply lines between the carbs and petcocks to provide proper filtration, don't rely on the petcocks filters.

I zoomed in on the photo, but still couldn't make out the miles on the odometer, would be nice to know how many it has on it. Also noticed that it still has the OEM Glass style fuses and block. That's one of the first electrical upgrades we HIGHLY recommend to help reduce the electrical gremlins....put in a solid ATCO style block and fuses. As said, you're going to want to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb so to taking EVERY electrical connector apart, inspecting, cleaning with electrical contact cleaner and reassemble. Don't forget the ALT plugs BEHIND the fuseblock plate!!! Also, all of the ground cables connected to the REG/RECT on the frame under the tank, the contact of the bottom of the REG/RECT and the frame bolt down contact! Also the engine to frame ground at the starter motor as well as the main battery cable.

The tires do look good, but checking the born on date is a good thing, it's an OVAL on the sidewall with 4 numbers, first 2 are week#, last 2 are year. If they are near or past 5 years old, it's a good idea to replace them due to just normal aging/drying/hardening that occurs to tire rubber exposed to OZONE atmosphere, that makes the tires slippery, not good for safety/handling.

Folks haven't asked yet, but have you taken a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course??
Being your FIRST BIKE, it's a big heavy powerful machine, and can kill you very quickly if you aren't careful and know how to handle it, but more importantly how to avoid getting run over by the cagers. Take a look at the MISC forum, the Why We Are Invisible thread for a real eye opener about why we are so paranoid about riding around cars!

As was stated, get the brakes working, you will probably need to take the calipers apart, clean the pistons and especially the groove that the square edged O-ring fits into. Corrosion can develop in there that can cause the piston to hang up, drag and not release when you let go of the lever! Also, you'll want to replace the OEM vinyl lines with Braided Stainless Steel lines, makes them much better, responsive, harder/firmer lever and such!

Aside from not using Synth or oils with friction modifiers, the clutch springs are probably OEM, and after 30+ years of heat/compression, they are probably SPRUNG and no longer in spec. Look for and get some Barnett Springs for it. Most folks have found that their frictions are still well within specs, but slip due to worn/weak springs!!! Read up on the Tranny Dremel fix, or the Extra Steel Clutch Plate(don't add the plate) just read to learn about how to remove and replace the star plate WITHOUT breaking of any of the points of the star while replacing the springs!

There's lots more to tell you, but you're just getting your feet wet right now, come back often and you'll learn lots as you go through the reconditioning of the bike!!

Reply With Quote