View Single Post
Old 08-13-2016, 08:00 PM
TopCatGr58's Avatar
TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portsmouth, Va.
Posts: 12,620
Hey there again Abel,

Here's one of several tips on replacing the fuseblock.

Take a look around the Mods/Electrical section to see them. Electrical on these bikes really isn't that difficult, mostly simple + and - pathways.

Glad you found out EARLY that almost any shop will NOT work on bikes this old, so you have to learn to work on it yourself! If you can master Human anatomy/physiology, you can master this bike!

Yeah, you'll either need to get a bike lift, or a centerstand that you can just put on with temp bolts/nuts to do work, then take off when done since the pipes get in the way. The OEM pipes were set up and tuned for the best ALL AROUND performance of the bike, both low end throttle response and good mid and top end as well, along with keeping it quiet.

The aftermarket 4-1 pipes will change the power band to a little higher in the rpm range, and some folks report a slight reduction in low rpm throttle strength/response. But folks that have these pipes usually don't run in the 2k range, but more in the 4-5k+ range!

I have 4-1 Mac pipes, and I don't run mine below 3k rpm anyways...I like both the quicker stronger throttle response from that rpm as well as then being able to use engine braking when I come off the throttle vs. the brakes. Also, the charging system is rather weak, and doesn't reach the full charging strength until ~2500+ rpm anyways, so if you run it below that cruising you can actually be discharging the battery!

Reply With Quote