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View Poll Results: Which is the easiest/most cost effective solution here?
Replace entire bank 3 37.50%
Replace entire single carb 4 50.00%
Replace just this broken part 1 12.50%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 12-02-2012, 04:12 PM
GTalmageNOLA GTalmageNOLA is offline
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Can this carb be salvaged??

So I'm a noob, awaiting my (carb-less) '81 XS1100 Special to be delivered, got all the accompanying parts and started looking through it all to see what I've got. One of the corners where the diaphragm covers (what is the technical name for this?) mount was cracked and upon taking the cover off, I discovered that it was completely broken off. Am I better off just buying a new bank of carbs? A single carb (don't know how easily these can be found or what tuning issues could crop up as a result later on...) or can I find a NOS part to replace just this part of the carb body? I'll post a picture of what I'm talking about ASAP.
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  #2  
Old 12-02-2012, 04:31 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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Without seeing how/where it's broken, hard to say. As to what would be the easiest path to a fully functional carb bank, that's again hard to say. To replace either the one part (sounds like a broken body) or carb, you'll have to get a match. There's four distinct carb set types; '78-79, early 80', late '80-81, and '82 (XJ). You can't mix the types as a general rule, and within each type the carbs are machined for 'place' (1, 2, 3, or 4). So if you're unable to find the 'correct' carb, a full set of another type could be used instead (except for the XJ carbs).

To identify what you have now, look here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35964
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'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2012, 04:50 PM
GTalmageNOLA GTalmageNOLA is offline
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the broken piece...


Aside from needing to be cleaned up a lot, what I've seen of the internals of the carbs look OK as far as I've seen so far... Thoughts?
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  #4  
Old 12-02-2012, 05:02 PM
GTalmageNOLA GTalmageNOLA is offline
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The carb in question



Haven't dig into its guts yet, but it definitely needs to be cleaned up...
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2012, 05:36 PM
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I would thoroughly clean the carbs and JB weld that piece back on there. That area is not directly exposed to fuel so you should be OK, worth a try, JMHO
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2012, 05:45 PM
GTalmageNOLA GTalmageNOLA is offline
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2012, 05:48 PM
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Yep, I would go thru the carbs first to make sure nothing else is broken. I would also recommend using the regular JB weld that needs to cure overnight, not the 5 minute type. Good luck bro'. Don't forget to replace the fuel seat O-rings upon reassembly.
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  #8  
Old 12-02-2012, 07:05 PM
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Tip of the day: Use regular JB weld as stated, place the carb you are repairing in a preheated oven once you do the work (225-250 degrees) for 20 or so minutes, and it is now quickly cured and as far as I can tell, as strong as it would be if cured overnight.
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  #9  
Old 12-02-2012, 07:29 PM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
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My dad repaired a rock induced hole in the oil pan on our van (hunting trip) with JB Weld. Not only did it get us home, but 10 years later (when he sold the van) it was STILL oil tight.
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:09 PM
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Well oil and fuel are different when it comes to the lasting effect of JB Weld. But, as Phil stated, there is not much fuel contact up there. I have seen those diaphrams wet with fuel vapor, but it is not constant contact exposure like a carb bowl.

That is part of the main carb body, so the only way to replace it would be to replace the entire body. Definitely either 80 or 81 carbs. So narrows it down to 2 of the types.

I would agree on repeairing it. Worse case is your right back where you are. Just don't forget about that repair if your bike will not run well, as a leak there will cause peformance problems.
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2012, 08:38 PM
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I don't see anyone has voted, as fixing it is not one of the choices! Fix it shoulda been #1...

First thought is usually to replace it when working with these bikes is new to you.

It was my mentality as well 4 years ago. You will find if there is a way to fix any aspect of the XS1100, it is in this forum in the form of previous threads and posts. Or if you can't find what you are looking for, then ask a question and watch the info flow forth.
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2012, 10:06 PM
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If your pockets are deep enough, you can have that welded.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2012, 11:08 PM
tarzan tarzan is offline
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Personally, I would replace the whole rack. It appears that those carbs have corrosion on them, and the one cracked one, makes it a pita. That is if you are planning on bringing this bike back to good condition. I mean, you could replace the one that is broken if you can find a replacement for that one.But like has been pointed out, it may be hard to find a single that is of that exact model and position. Although, if you find one of that model, you could modify one that was in a different position in the rack to fit.
You also can jb-weld the broken piece on, but it will be difficult to get it to fit exactly due to the adhesive causing a very slight mismatch at the seam.
You can pick up a decent set of carbs for under $100 if you shop a little(I know, it's not real cheap,but you would have a solid set).And obviously, whether you use yours or get another set, you will probably have to rebuild them too.
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  #14  
Old 12-03-2012, 12:18 PM
crazy steve crazy steve is offline
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On the late carbs, you can swap a #1 for a #3 carb, but you do have to swap the throttle shaft/linkage...
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Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...

Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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  #15  
Old 12-03-2012, 03:31 PM
GTalmageNOLA GTalmageNOLA is offline
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If I buy a whole new rack

I've found some really clean sets on eBay and around. If they claim they've just been rebuilt, what additional questions should I be asking these sellers. It seems like a set in really good clean (allegedly working) shape runs around $200, so as long as I wouldn't be having to rebuild them anyway (and subsequently buying the rebuild kits to do so) I'd be coming out around even. I'm not looking to make this a show bike, but I do want it to be as reliable as possible for a daily rider and some cross country road trip extravaganzas. Thoughts?
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