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  #1  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:42 PM
Tbell Tbell is offline
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Carb float valve needed

I have cleaned up the carbs on my 81 sx1100sh and everything is in good condition except for one float valve. The plunger is stuck in the down position and won't let go. Any suggestions? Really don't want to purchase a whole set if I don't need to. Anyone have one good float valve they could to part with?

Thanks!

Tom

This may not be in the correct forum. Sorry if it isn't.
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:58 PM
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CatatonicBug CatatonicBug is offline
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I have a couple of used ones you can have. I don't think there was a problem with them, I just replaced them with new when I rebuilt my carbs.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:58 PM
randy randy is offline
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I one of 'em is gunked up that bad, I wouldn't trust the rest. Have you removed the others and replaced the o-rings?

You're asking fer trouble.
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  #4  
Old 07-06-2010, 03:00 PM
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CatatonicBug CatatonicBug is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy View Post
I one of 'em is gunked up that bad, I wouldn't trust the rest. Have you removed the others and replaced the o-rings?

You're asking fer trouble.
Good point. You can get a set of 4 (needles AND seats) from georgefix on ebay for something like $57, IIRC.
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1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2010, 03:30 PM
CaptonZap CaptonZap is offline
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Funny you should ask.
I just had the same problem with three of them, and after getting assured that they won't work in that condition, I priced new ones out, and figured that since they were scrap anyway, I could experiment.
So here is my drill, which saved me $20.
Take a small container (pot), take the spring retainers off of the needles, put them somewhere that they will not get lost, put the needles in the container with some Pine Sol or Zep cleaner mixed with a little water, and bring them to a simmer. Let them simmer for a few minutes. The tips are Viton, so the heat will not hurt them.
Take one out, and get a pair of pliers that have grooves inside the jaw, and find a set of grooves that will engage the ribs on the needle, with the small pin up. You want the shoulder of the ribs setting on the flat side of the plier jaws, with the Viton tip down in the jaws. DO NOT grip the needles with the pliers on the outside of the ribs, as that is what slide in the seat pocket. Take a flat screwdriver, set the pliers on a firm surface, tip down, and with the flat of the blade, press the pin down. It may only go a little way, and it may not come back up. Throw it back in the pot, and get another one. Repeat the process.
After a few minutes in the pot, my pins came back out. If yours do, take one needle out, and put a drop of carb cleaner on the pin, and depress the pin. I got one free that way. The other two required some persuasion. I applied a drop or two of carb cleaner, then a drop of Kroil (any oily penatrant will do) and, holding the needle with a pair of pliers, applied the flame of a lighter to the pin end. do not heat it to much, as the spring inside could lose it's temper. Just play the flame back and forth across the pin end. Some nasty gook came out, along with the pin. So I applied some more Kroil, pushed the pin in, put it back in the pot, and out came the pin. A couple of itterations of that treatment, and the pins were free.
So, to clean them out, submerse them in acetone or laquer thinner, and work the pins in and out a dozen or so times. That will pump out most of the crud inside. Viton is unaffected by most chemicals, so don't worry about the tip.
Put the wire clips back on, and reassemble the float and valve.
Now, all the floats bounce when they are dropped on the needles. At least mine did.
If that doesn't work, you aren't out anything but a little time and chemicals.
Good luck, CZ
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2010, 04:30 PM
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bikerphil bikerphil is offline
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Float needle only, $4.50 ea, P/N 48-5014

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-35.html#products
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2010, 04:42 PM
randy randy is offline
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Quote:
If that doesn't work, you aren't out anything but a little time and chemicals
Gentlemen,

TIME is the only thing that can't be replaced.

JMHO
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2010, 08:56 PM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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Another county to hear from....Having gone through these carbs on a few or more bikes, I can tell you, by the time get them off and back on with the stock air box a few times. Or get it all set up and ready to go, only to have fuel running out the air box, so you can pull them back out again. Well, by that point, you will gladly pay the $20 or whatever it is to have new needle valves and seats in the carbs.

Like I said, just another county..sending in the votes.
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80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


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80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
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80 CB750 C
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:01 PM
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fredintoon fredintoon is offline
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You mean those little bastards have spring loaded pins in their arse ends?
They are not just solid chunks of stuff with plastic tips on their noses and reduced diameter tails?
All the times I've torn those carbs down and I never knew that.
And I've just finished what I thought was a complete carb clean and rebuild.
WTF, the bike is running great. I shall persuade myself that my float needles are working perfectly even if I didn't know how they operated.
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:10 PM
Toolmaker Tim Toolmaker Tim is offline
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A very logical response Fred! If something works, don't tempt Mr Murphy! I just wish I took my own advice.
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Dunlop Elite 3's
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  #11  
Old 07-07-2010, 08:23 AM
Tbell Tbell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerphil View Post
Float needle only, $4.50 ea, P/N 48-5014

http://www.mikesxs.net/products-35.html#products

That site and the parts is for the xs650. Are they the same parts?

I think I will go for new if that is all they cost and I can get individual replacements without having to buy a complete carb kit. There are a couple of other parts I need also.

I have tried soaking the valve in everything suggested with no luck. The valve is toast and as stated, not to be trusted.

Thanks to all who replied! Tom
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  #12  
Old 07-07-2010, 08:26 AM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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The 650 and the 1100 share alot of parts, but Mikexs specializes in 650 bikes so they do not like to answer questions about 1100s or sometimes even sell parts for 1100s so mums the word on the 1100 part.
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Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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