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Old 06-27-2018, 08:56 PM
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Never2L84Ridin Never2L84Ridin is offline
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Fuel in with oil

Is it possible that the fuel can leak out from the tank and make its way into the crankcase oil? Ive had it come out of the air box before when pick up coil went out. I went for a ride and when I got rpm's up, the bike revved up like it had the clutch pulled in. It does that in each gear when I try to accelerate quickly. I changed the oil and filter and it smelled like some gas in the oil. After the oil change it still did it not as bad. The next day it was back to doing it like it was before oil change. Do I need to rebuild the petcocks or is there another issue?
Thanks in advance
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Old 06-27-2018, 09:14 PM
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Radioguylogs Radioguylogs is offline
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Sounds like your clutch us slipping because your oil has gas in it. There are other possible causes for a clutch slipping, but you already know about the gas.

The slipping clutch is not your biggest concern with this problem. Gas in the oil can cause your crank bearing to fail very, very quickly, so take this problem seriously. It is a well known problem among our members.

Both of these two thinks are wrong when you have gas in the oil
(a) your petcocks or octy are leaking
(b) the needle valves in your carb float bowl(s) are leaking

You need to fix these problems before you ruin your engine. Let us know what your questions are and help will be along quickly.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2018, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioguylogs View Post
(snip)

Both of these two thinks are wrong when you have gas in the oil
(a) your petcocks or octy are leaking
(b) the needle valves in your carb float bowl(s) are leaking

You need to fix these problems before you ruin your engine. Let us know what your questions are and help will be along quickly.
If I had a special model, the first thing I would do is get rid of the octopus and just manually switch the petcocks. Radioguylogs is right about the need to prevent contanination. The needle valve feeds fuel to the float bowl, but of course is it really in the carb body. The hardest thing about fixing those is getting the pivot pins out of the float “goal posts” without breaking one.
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Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:00 AM
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Repair or bypass the octy, georgefix on ebay is my go to guy for the parts on it. On the carbs, buy a set of MIKUNI needles. DO NOT BUY ANY OTHER BRAND! There IS a difference, and the K&L just don't work well.
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2018, 05:03 PM
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Never2L84Ridin Never2L84Ridin is offline
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Would I need new petcocks to just have an on&off or use the existing ones & repair. I like the idea on on or off rather than having 4 positions.
Also would if be feasible to just go ahead and order the pivot pins & the goal post also
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Old 06-29-2018, 05:15 PM
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Would I need new petcocks to just have an on&off or use the existing ones & repair. I like the idea on on or off rather than having 4 positions.
You can buy pringle or other new petcocks, but that is money. If you search on "special petcock mods" you will see how easy it is to have an off/on from yours.
Quote:
Also would if be feasible to just go ahead and order the pivot pins & the goal post also
No, you don't need to replace the pins. If you break the post, you need a new carb body or someone who is good with metal to do a repair.
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2018, 05:53 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2L84Ridin View Post
Would I need new petcocks to just have an on&off or use the existing ones & repair. I like the idea on on or off rather than having 4 positions.
Also would if be feasible to just go ahead and order the pivot pins & the goal post also
If you tap out the pivot pins successfully, chuck them up in a drill and using a fine-fine file, file the raised area on othe other end. This way, the pins will just slide out and not have that raised shoulder area that makes pins fit tightly on that end.
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  #8  
Old 06-29-2018, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoman View Post
If you tap out the pivot pins successfully, chuck them up in a drill and using a fine-fine file, file the raised area on othe other end. This way, the pins will just slide out and not have that raised shoulder area that makes pins fit tightly on that end.
You can use fine sand paper on the pins before reassembly, and you don’t have to drive them in to the hilt. They just have to seat securely.. The big problem is getting them out without breaking the goal post. You can pull on the flange end with side cutters/wire cutters (flush edge) and still bend over the opposite goal post tip (bad!). Try penetrating oil at both goal posts. Put some pressure on the flange end of the pin (like a nail head) while lighty tapping with a punch on the other end of the pin. OK, you might need another set of hands! Ken Talbot made a pin press that is the cats meow for removing pins without breaking posts. You can do it wothout, but you have to be careful.
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Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
One with Jardine 4-1 pipes. 8500 feet elevation.
03 Honda ST1300 ABS
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Old 06-29-2018, 07:17 PM
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skids skids is offline
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Originally Posted by skids View Post
You can use fine sand paper on the pins before reassembly, and you don’t have to drive them in to the hilt. They just have to seat securely.. The big problem is getting them out without breaking the goal post. You can pull on the flange end with side cutters/wire cutters (flush edge) and still bend over the opposite goal post tip (bad!). Try penetrating oil at both goal posts. Put some pressure on the flange end of the pin (like a nail head) while lighty tapping with a punch on the other end of the pin. OK, you might need another set of hands! Ken Talbot made a pin press that is the cats meow for removing pins without breaking posts. You can do it wothout, but you have to be careful.
PS, a spacer of some sort that is the exact width between the goal posts would definately help distribute the forces.
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Skids (Sid Hansen)

Down to two 1978 E's. Both stock air boxes with K&N filters, one with 81H pipes and carbs,
One with Jardine 4-1 pipes. 8500 feet elevation.
03 Honda ST1300 ABS
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2018, 04:12 PM
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fredintoon fredintoon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2L84Ridin View Post
Is it possible that the fuel can leak out from the tank and make its way into the crankcase oil? Ive had it come out of the air box before when pick up coil went out. I went for a ride and when I got rpm's up, the bike revved up like it had the clutch pulled in. It does that in each gear when I try to accelerate quickly. I changed the oil and filter and it smelled like some gas in the oil. After the oil change it still did it not as bad. The next day it was back to doing it like it was before oil change. Do I need to rebuild the petcocks or is there another issue?
Thanks in advance
Hi Never2,
gas in the oil is a BAD THING.
It gets there because your carbs' needle valves &/or your gas taps ain't shutting the fuel off as they should when the bike is parked.
Fix the carb needles and make sure the gas taps have a true OFF position and remember to USE it.
Here's a trick to safely pull the float pins:-
Hit them on the small end with an automatic (spring loaded) center-punch.
couple of push'n'clicks will move 'em every time.
Costs less than $20 for a good one, saves you $100+ the first float post you don't bust off.
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  #11  
Old 07-12-2018, 07:43 PM
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Never2L84Ridin Never2L84Ridin is offline
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I took the tank off, then I turned both petcocks to run then back to off. Fuel came out when in run position. Did same for reserve, came out same spot. When I did for Pri fuel came out the other port. Each time petcocks was off no fuel. Does this mean petcocks are working properly? Would it make a difference if the tank/petcocks were mounted and fuel lines hooked back up going through the octopus with vacuum on it? I just figured if petcocks were working with gravity feed they should work with vacuum which would mean petcocks are working properly. Am I thinking correctly?
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2018, 06:52 AM
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Yes you are. If you choose to eliminate the octy, just cap off the front prime port and run the left tap across and down to carbs 3+4, right tap to 1+2. If you are keeping the octy, have fun with that.
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2018, 01:35 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2L84Ridin View Post
Is it possible that the fuel can leak out from the tank and make its way into the crankcase oil? Ive had it come out of the air box before when pick up coil went out. I went for a ride and when I got rpm's up, the bike revved up like it had the clutch pulled in. It does that in each gear when I try to accelerate quickly. I changed the oil and filter and it smelled like some gas in the oil. After the oil change it still did it not as bad. The next day it was back to doing it like it was before oil change. Do I need to rebuild the petcocks or is there another issue?
Thanks in advance
Likely fuel in oil caused from float needles not sealing off when bike is off....causinf float bowls to overfill and excess fuel running FORWARD from venturi into intake, and weeping past rings into crankcase. ADVICE: Do NOT ride anymore till issue IS resolved, or motor WILL trash bearings from contaminated oil!
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  #14  
Old 07-13-2018, 07:01 PM
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Never2L84Ridin Never2L84Ridin is offline
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So does this mean I don't need to mess with petcocks and just focus on the float needles?
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  #15  
Old 07-14-2018, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2L84Ridin View Post
So does this mean I don't need to mess with petcocks and just focus on the float needles?
Hi Never2L8,
most likely your float needles are working OK for their design purpose of controlling fuel flow when the engine is running.
What I'd advise is to convert your vacuum OFF Octopus system to a manual OFF system and remember to use it when you park.
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