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  #16  
Old 01-22-2010, 10:56 PM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
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Well, the tank is glued up and curing down stairs.

I took a 3" wire wheel in my die grinder and removed all the paint from the affected areas. There were about 4 little tiny craters under the paint, only one of which went all the way through.

With careful inspection, I found several other areas that had these tiny blisters in the paint. The wire wheel quickly revealed several more areas that will need attention. I probed each of the pits with a sharp awl and was able to push it through a bit on about 1/3 of the pits. The largest hole I was able to make with the awl was about 1/16" or so. That was only on two of them. The rest where pretty much pin holes, even after opening them up with the awl.

The surrounding metal is very sound around the pits, so I am not worried about the structural integrity of the tank. For the temporary repair, I went ahead with what I know and picked up a new package of JB Weld (original) on the way home from work this evening. With the metal roughed up by the wire wheel, I worked the JB Weld down into each hole and then covered the affected areas around each hole by at least 3/8" (and usually more as most of the holes where in a line about 1/2" away from the tank seam, so I had lines of JB Weld going down the tank next to the seam).

Tomorrow, I'll hit the JB Weld and exposed metal with a bit of dark primer and call it good until this summer. Then, it gets the full electrolysis inside and out followed by the epoxy lining to make sure rust never shows up again. Thankfully, my tank is black and the repair is on the bottom of the tank, so it should look pretty good once it is all done, at least good enough to get me through to summer.

On a side note, my new foot peg covers came in today along with the exhaust gaskets and brake caliper bleeder covers. All those new parts are installed. The foot peg covers make a world of difference in the appearance of the bike.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2010, 03:38 PM
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b.walker5 b.walker5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredintoon View Post
Just a pinhole? Don't want to de-fume the tank so you can safely use a flame? What worked on my tank that grew a pinhole in that exact same place was this.
Dump the gas out. Sand the area real shiny. Put a centrepunch in the dent and give the punch a fair rap with a medium-sized hammer.
This puts a nice dent around the pinhole that you can fill with soft solder. Use lots of flux and a ~120 Watt electric soldering iron. Same dent-the-pinhole trick works if you use JBweld or epoxy.
It's a lost art Fred, almost nobody does it these days. I remember using solder and lead to fill dents and holes in a damaged model 88 Norton tank years ago. It took a lot of work and #$^# it was heavy, but it worked and came up beautiful. It's unheard of these days, replaced by plastic and epoxy products. I recently soldered up a ss tank to make a small still and my son still thinks I'm nuts. "Why dont you just go an buy one" he says. His generation have no understanding of the true meaning of DIY.
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  #18  
Old 01-23-2010, 05:18 PM
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Probably too late, but soldering is the way to go, IMHO. JB Weld is a temporary fix, solder is permanent. Radiator shop will probably solder it for you.
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79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (160K miles)
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  #19  
Old 01-23-2010, 10:50 PM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
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Phil,

I agree with you! The JB IS a temporary fix. I only need it to stay sound for a few months until this summer. Then, I plan on dunking the whole tank and giving it the electrolysis treatment (I already did the inside, that's why I have the pin holes that are leaking!) to get it all down to bare metal. After that, I will braze all of the holes shut and take care of any body work it needs, then repaint.

The only reason it has to wait until this summer is that I am back in school. Taking the pickup is killing me for two reason: Parking for cars is WAY off campus (versus motorcycle parking pretty much right next to each building I have to be in!) and the truck is KILLING me in gas! Eleven miles per gallon ads up in a hurry...

Plus, the bike is a LOT funner to ride!
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2010, 11:00 AM
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cywelchjr cywelchjr is offline
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Originally Posted by clcorbin View Post
Plus, the bike is a LOT funner to ride!
Love these made up words. Especially when they actually make sense in the context they are used in. Actually I have seen that one used in many places, and have even used it myself. I wonder how much longer it's going to be before it's officially part of the language?
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I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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  #21  
Old 01-24-2010, 11:56 AM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
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I remember when "ain't" was officially added to the dictionary. I was in the middle of my freshman (high school) English class. We had a VERY old English teacher and she was always telling someone or another "Ain't isn't in the dictionary!!" It was quite amusing when it WAS in the dictionary and she said that!

But, just to set the record straight...

"Plus, the bike is a lot more fun to ride!"

Eh... I like the original version better!

I just got back from my inaugural ride. It was DEFINITELY cold natured and it took about a mile before it cleaned up and started running right. Given that the gas is fresh, the carbs are freshly cleaned and the spark plugs are new, I expected it to run cleanly right off the bat...

What I can tell at this point is that the bottom end (below 4500 rpm) is definitely running better than it ever has. Much more crisp (after it cleaned up!). Before, it was definitely a bit doggy below 3000 rpm and then started to wake up at 3500 rpm then REALLY pulled at 4500 rpm.

Unfortunately, the top end just doesn't have the pull it had in the past. It still pulls, but it never gets that solid tug at 4500 and 6500 rpm like it did in the past. I realized that some of that sensation is because the bike is running better on the bottom, but that only accounts for some of the perceived loss.

After my balls warm back up (test riding a bike on a 35F day with a 40 mph cross wind isn't the smartest thing I have ever done!), I'm going to grab my spark plug wrench and head out to a nice, long up hill road I know of and see what the plugs look like. I suspect that they are going to show lean, but I could be surprised.
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  #22  
Old 01-24-2010, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by clcorbin View Post
Unfortunately, the top end just doesn't have the pull it had in the past.
What size mains do you have in there now? Stock is 137.5
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79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (160K miles)
79SF - every day rider, solo seat mod, Brembo 16MM M/C, Accel 3Ω's, Supertrapp (120K miles)

"If it ain't broke, modify it"

30 year XS11 owner

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  #23  
Old 01-24-2010, 07:03 PM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
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New 130 Mikuni jets. It had 130 on the inside and 127.5 on the outer carbs.

I think I have got it licked. I just finished taking the carbs off and I raised the float level by 1 1/2 mm. Between the hard starting when it was cold, it's behavior with the choke when hot (NOT dying!) and the definite indication that it is lean across the board, this seemed like the best approach.

After putting it all back together, the bike fired up much more like it's old self. I took it for a spin (34F at night, not the smartest thing, but at least the stupid wind has died down!) and it definitely is pulling much better on top. It's good enough now that I don't have any concerns about riding it to school this week. I'll probably spend more time on it next weekend dialing things in.

I am REALLY temped to take my waveband O2 system off my car so I can datalog the AFR. MUCH faster and simpler than playing games trying to read spark plugs.
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