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Old 06-04-2014, 05:55 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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My first XS11 Project

Couple weeks ago found a 'deal' on a 1979 XS11 with issues, talked him down to $340 on pricing, near complete, broken fairing, nice king/queen seat, side bags.

Been tinkering on her, at the 3rd time on the carb cleaning, had an issue with #3 not coming up to temp, few pops, rev'd good, was 200 degrees cooler than 1, 2, and 4. Pick-up coils had been worked on several times, bought spare set off eBay for $20 shipped with only 1 bad wire that I repaired. She had ~155# compression on all 4, 1 muffler a little crusty.

Tried the coil wire swap and found out my wires were brittle, at least the double shrink wrap that was covering them, ordered up the Dynatek coils and matching wires they recommended, which were not solid core, supression, bought the BPR6ES as recommended, still waiting on those parts to see if 3rd time was the charm.

Boots were wore out, found a set on Amazon with bolts and gaskets for $70 shipped, installed those and mounted carbs to insure the angles were correct and they were, will remove and mount airbox after I salvage some nuts for the stock box that were missing out of my XS bin of parts, I've owned a pair of XS750's for many years and pick up spare parts whenever I see them.

Bought a new battery from Chrome, a glass mat style, used their batteries in my other XS's without any issue, had a smaller spare from my 750 in there that started it up with ease.

Fork seals ordered as the tubes were both wet when I picked her up, rear master cylinder needs a rebuild, she is stuck depressed, a kit was in the bags from previous owner. Front tire was free of any cracks and like new, ordered a new rear since that one was bald and cracked up, don't want any mishaps on her first spin around the block. Replaced the glass fuse holder with a spaded one, cleaned and greased connections. Front brake switch was broken, will rob from my parts pile.
'Factory' fairing broken up where she mounts and inside, from the outside she still looked good, may toss a Windjammer on her, was going to try and repair, do have another broken Windjammer could rob the plastic from and weld her together but the spare Windjammer will do just fine and feel safer if I wind her up on the open road.

By the time the coils come next week should have it close enough to take it for test run if they solve the latest problem, tire installed, brakes rebuilt, wiring inspected, bike rewired for the Vetter.

Will post results and hope to park the 750's for a while and ride something with a tad more power, hope to enjoy the crowd in here...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2014, 06:30 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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In one of my carb cleaning attempts the bricked stack of carbs slipped while wearing my rubber gloves and I did break off one of the float bowl supports.

I am pretty keen at fabrication and I took an old carb, cut that support out clean, ground mine smooth, drilled hole, tap n die some threads, and threaded a new support into position, I took some pictures of the project and some first attempts, the final repair is as functional as the day it was built.

So there is hope if you damage one of the supports, don't toss that carb out and keep an eye on Craigslist for some cheap parts bikes, $100 or less, those parts do come in handy, as did with the spare carbs off the $50 parts bike I used this from...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #3  
Old 06-04-2014, 06:33 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey there So-B-It-Then,

Hope you looked around and learned that you could have used the higher OHMed (3.0) style DynaTek coils vs. the 1.5 ohm ones that were in the original older tips circa 2002?? With the higher 3.0 ohm coils, you just bypass the ballast resistor so it sees 12 volts all the time, and the TCI still see the 3.0 ohms total.

Being a veteran bike owner, we would hope that you would be aware of the BORN ON DATE on bike tires.....so that even though the front can look new and not cracked, it might be many years old, and remember that the front tire provides ~75% or so of your braking power vs. the rear. IF you're not familiar with the born on date, it's a 4 digit number on the sidewall usually inside an oval or rounded rectangle outline. The first 2 numbers are the week and the last 2 are the year of production.

Okay, welcome to the madness, yes the 11 will be quite a bit stronger than your 750's. And with a 750, you even have the material needed to do the Final Drive swap IF you find that the rpm in high gear cruising feels too high, but these machines/engines can run forever at 5krpm.

T.C.
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  #4  
Old 06-04-2014, 08:54 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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The 3 ohm coils are what I ordered.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G5RDP4/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_2 a tad pricier than I wanted to spend.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00230BWR0/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1 for the plug wires, will try and cut them all equal length and loom them out so they all have identical resistances and spark timing.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K87WETK/..._M3T1_ST1_dp_1 were the boots.

I installed the crappy kit, just testing and can get the genuine Mikuni jets, or may have had them out in my other garage, tuned a few before and ordered few sizes above and below just in case...

My fairing dilemma is next, whether to repair or replace with a windjammer or not..
I would add a photo but I don't have a website to toss them onto to show the damage...

As to the tires, I am fearless in that matter, if they are not cracked or not overheating shaking showing any sign of problem, I will run them until they cannot shed water...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350

Last edited by Sobitthen; 06-04-2014 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Responding to tire question.
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2014, 10:06 AM
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Radioguylogs Radioguylogs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sobitthen View Post
As to the tires, I am fearless in that matter, if they are not cracked or not overheating shaking showing any sign of problem, I will run them until they cannot shed water...
Last year I finally replaced the tires my 750- Can't believe they were cracking so bad- I just put them on in 1984.
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_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 42k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 15k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna ? miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 5k miles

Previous
'68 Motoguzzi 600cc
'79 XS750SF 22k miles
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  #6  
Old 06-06-2014, 07:22 AM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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Then I ended up ordering the wrong tire size by using one of the tire finder guides on the web... Said my rear was a 16 when it was a 17, refused delivery.

The front was made in 1999 a Metzeler Marathon and it still has the nobbies on it, the bike had been parked since 1999 in a heated garage until this year, I was surprised the tank held fuel...

From tube the bike was made in 5/78 and designated a 1979 model.
Just waiting on the coils, roadtrip to gather spare fairing,and correct tire to arrive to test her out, another week now...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #7  
Old 06-08-2014, 03:01 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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Question Any trick with the beadlockers?

None of my other bikes had beadlockers before, trying to take the old tire off the rim and not having any fun, marking up my rim.
Loosened the 2 nuts to end, pressed them in as far as they go, broke bead both sides, the spoon just having tough time getting bead over edge of rim, leaving marks.
Tire is old, but not hard, seems plenty flexible.
Tubeless tire with a tube, did a search first here, not any mention of these lockers in a page of results...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #8  
Old 06-08-2014, 03:55 PM
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DiverRay DiverRay is offline
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All tires are now tubeless. You need a tube because of the beadlocks they put on the '78 and early '79 models. Your front tire will feel like trying to ride on ice! I know, been there, done that with my MNS. The rubber gets HARD and will not grip, ESPECIALLY in the rain. You can look for the newer rear rim, and just go tubeless that way, or plug the two beadlock holes and put the tubeless on your rim. I've done both, and they both work.
When you take out the ballast resistor, tape up or shrink tube the connectors after you plug then into each other. I've had my '79 quit in the middle of a ride because I did NOT do that. One little bare part can short, and blow the ignition fuse. If you have ANY problems with the plug wires, go to a speed shop and get solid core wires! The bike will run better with them, and if you do not have a radio YOU don't care! The car next to you.....oh well.
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R1200RT Totaled 11-15-2016
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF
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  #9  
Old 06-08-2014, 04:38 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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I believe it is the front rim that has a very different profile on the rim (read easier for the tire to slip off the rim) and you should still use a tube with the beadlockers.

The rear though is the same profile on the rim and you could just thread the beadlocker holes and run an Allen plug in and seal it off for good and use as a tubeless setup.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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Old 06-08-2014, 05:16 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Here is the pics of the rims and a little discussion.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35442
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #11  
Old 06-08-2014, 06:40 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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I have a spare set of rims off my XS750 that are tubeless, I could have possibly used those, but I think the rears are 18's on the 750's and I just ordered a new 17. The front on the other hand, if the bearings and axles are the same size...


So do you push the beadlockers all the way into tire when you remove the tire then or just to end of the threads?
__________________
1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350

Last edited by Sobitthen; 06-08-2014 at 06:43 PM. Reason: beadlocker
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  #12  
Old 06-08-2014, 08:06 PM
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DiverRay DiverRay is offline
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Push them all the way in to remove the tire. If you use them on the new tire, you will need to install one side of the tire, install the bead locks with the nut on about 2 turns, install the tube, and then install the last bead. MUCH easier to plug the two holes and just go tubeless, IMHO.
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XS1100 SF
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  #13  
Old 06-08-2014, 09:05 PM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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Tubeless is the route I would go, either via my other rims or plugging the holes.
I have tap n die set here, would just use aviation form-a-gasket on threads, should seal the threads.
And since not concerned over the tube, guess pushing the lockers into tire isn't a concern, is that how they normally come off if you were trying to save the tube?
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2014, 11:32 AM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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1/8 instead of 1/4 pipe for me.

I found that the current holes for the beadlockers were perfect for tapping to 1/8" pipe thread, I saw no reason to enlarge holes to 7/16" to use the 1/4" pipe thread plugs as directed in the forum thread on modifying rear rims for tubeless usage.
Perhaps if those beadlockers came loose at one point and the holes were irregular, then it may be needed, but mine worked great without any drilling.
Now I will have to drill out the valve stem hole to 7/16" to use the chrome stems I had on hand, perhaps that is the reason since you would have to enlarge the other hole, but I find it to be a step not required for the rims on my 79...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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  #15  
Old 06-18-2014, 12:47 AM
Sobitthen Sobitthen is offline
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Finally, got to take her out.

Aside from a bad clutch cable, had a nick and water must have corroded it, she is a screamer.
Had to put a Vetter on her, the Pacifico was too damaged at mounting area, bought a plastic welder, but no spare ABS laying around to attempt the fix.

It has a gyro effect at low speed, seems to pull left for 20-30 feet, then right, not a wobble, more of lean left then lean right, ordered a new front tire, even though it didn't heat up, thought the different pattern of a mis-matched set was effecting it.

When I loosened the pinch bolt in back, when changing the tire, she spread apart about 1/8", sliding the bolt towards the nut, swingarm seemed tight and centered, but might have to re-look into that if front tire swap doesn't correct the effect I experienced.

I saw some mention of fork braces, is this what you experience when they flex? I thought those were more for the twisties...
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1979 XS1100 w/Factory Fairing <Need left cover>
1979 XS750 Special <Sold Spring 15>
1977 XS750
1978 IT250
1987 YFM350
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