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  #1  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:54 PM
a3dudek a3dudek is offline
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Fixed crankshaft seal but it still leaks

Basically what the title says. Any suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:19 AM
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Right side or left? Sure it isn't coming from the oil galley plug in there?
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:45 AM
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James England James England is offline
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Mmmm... not fixed then!

Did you distort or damage the seal when putting it in? They have to be tapped in by the outer ring, equally (I use a socket spanner). Is the spring facing inwards, as it should? Is there a possibility that the spring was missing (I always check before fitting) or somehow popped out when fitting?

When fitting an oil seal, I try whenever possible to use a small piece of ultra-fine emery paper, dry, and I wrap it round the shaft and give one turn only. It can remove glazed deposits off teh shaft (from the old seal edge). Did you check the condition of the crankshaft end to see that it was smooth? Also, importantly, did you lubricate the inner leip of your new seal with oil before fitting?

If no to any of the above, I'd be tempted to remove the seal and start again. They're cheap, aren't they?
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:46 AM
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If the crank bearings are bad and letting the crank move around, new seals won't help... but do as Nate (And James) says. My statement is a worst-case scenario. If you've got the crank exposed, or the rotor on the right side, you can grab it and try to move it up or down, or side to side. If you feel movement, that's the problem. Could have also been damaged on installation? Did you put any gasket sealant on the outside edge of the seal before you tapped it in?
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Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own

Last edited by trbig; 06-26-2012 at 07:48 AM.
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  #5  
Old 06-26-2012, 07:55 AM
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A certain amount of 'end float' is acceptable though.... that's if you push on the end of the crankshaft, as opposed to lifting it. As Trbig says though, any slack up and down isn't right.

BTW... are you positive that you used the correct seal? If all else fails, perhaps you could use a seal with a smaller inner diameter? As small an increase as possible.....
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:05 AM
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James is correct.. by "Push and pull" I meant front to back. Sorry. Side to side, (Left to right) there will be some movement.
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Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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  #7  
Old 06-26-2012, 09:10 AM
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For that type of seal I always used an installer which was a lip that fits the part of the seal you smack to install and a round hub that fits inside to spread the seal lips and help retain the spring.. I have a kit that has many different sized lips and hubs that screw onto a shaft that you strike with a mallet..

Hope that's as clear as mud.. you can get these at any parts house (mine was a snap on but you dont have to spend that kind of money). Saves a lot of grief when installing seals.

Lee
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:48 AM
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James England James England is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparks View Post
For that type of seal I always used an installer which was a lip that fits the part of the seal you smack to install and a round hub that fits inside to spread the seal lips and help retain the spring.. I have a kit that has many different sized lips and hubs that screw onto a shaft that you strike with a mallet..

Hope that's as clear as mud.. you can get these at any parts house (mine was a snap on but you dont have to spend that kind of money). Saves a lot of grief when installing seals.

Lee
(Sparks)
So, assuming the tool worked as it should, and the seal is undamaged, with the spring inside.... it could be

1. Incorrect seal size. Buy correct size

2. Leak from outer part of the seal...perhaps a small amount of damage when removing the old seal. Put silicone round it when you install

3. Damage to crank end. Not likely but there could be some baked-on gunge where the oil seal touches it.

4. Not a leak from the seal. Could be gallery plug. Or even the crankcase itself. I would clean the whole area with solvent. Dry it well and then puff a fine dusting of talcum powder on the casing, near the seal and also the gallery plug. This will show where the oil is weeping/leaking from because you'll see a trail through the talc.
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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  #9  
Old 06-26-2012, 10:19 AM
a3dudek a3dudek is offline
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so it is the left side seal. i installed 32x48x8. it for isn't the oil galley plug because i can see the oil coming from the ignition cover weeping hole.

i am 99 % sure i put the seal in correctly because it took a couple times (i wasted one seal), i used a perfect size PVC pipe to gently tap it in. .

there was some play in the shaft (left to right) but not up and down when i changed it (at least what i remember.)

i oiled the seal before i put it in and the spring was in the proper spot on install.

i also used a small amount of gasket sealant on install, should i have globbed it in cracks. i might have damaged the outer part of the case where the seal fits.

the leak was decreased down to a drop or two a day when i replaced the seal (much better than it was) but it has been very hot where i live this past week and have noticed more consistent dripping. i also put about 400 miles on the bike last week (the most miles since i got it up and running)

thanks for all the comments guys, keep the suggestions coming please
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  #10  
Old 06-26-2012, 10:23 AM
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James England James England is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a3dudek View Post
there was some play in the shaft (left to right) but not up and down when i changed it (at least what i remember.)
That amounts to the same thing. Up/down and left/right but I doubt there was any play...it's easy to 'remember' incorrect things when stripping bits off. Double-check it though.

I strongly suspect that the crankcase(s) have minor scratches from whatever tool you used to get the old seal out. Even one scratch would be enough and would account for the increase in hot weather when the oil is thinner and able to get through.

I think you should buy another seal. Take the one out that you've just put in. Clean the inside surfaces of the crankcases right the way round, using clutch cleaner on a lint-free cloth... it won't take much. Check for scratches and gouges and verify how far in you can put the seal (since it has no external lip like the OEM one).

If the groove in the crankcases where the OEM seal located are empty of OEM seal bits, I would run my finger round them with a blob of sealant in order to block the groove up. Then put the new seal in with a good amount of sealer...RTV or similar.
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

Last edited by James England; 06-26-2012 at 10:32 AM.
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  #11  
Old 06-26-2012, 01:34 PM
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trbig trbig is offline
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Did you check for a groove on the crank where the seal sits? Sometimes dirt grinding in the same spot for years will cut a groove into the metal. Also, did you buy a single or double lipped seal? I've had MUCH better luck with the double lipped seals since they obviously aren't going to ride on the same spot that the old one was. If you can't find a double lipped seal, then maybe try a 32x48 x7
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Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

Current bikes:
'06 Suzuki DR650
*'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
'82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
'82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
'82 XJ1100 Parts bike
'81 XS1100 Special
'81 YZ250
'80 XS850 Special
'80 XR100
*Crashed/Totalled, still own
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  #12  
Old 06-26-2012, 02:19 PM
a3dudek a3dudek is offline
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i bought a double lip seal
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  #13  
Old 06-26-2012, 03:07 PM
cowboy1157 cowboy1157 is offline
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Did you use a speedy seal along with the timiken seal it takes both to seal up properly on the crank shaft. I found this out the hard way.
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  #14  
Old 06-26-2012, 04:42 PM
a3dudek a3dudek is offline
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what is a speedy seal?
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  #15  
Old 06-26-2012, 05:00 PM
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Speedi-sleeve Most auto parts houses carry them. You'll have to know your exact shaft diameter though.
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