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-   -   Clutch slip? (http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33114)

Ebenezer 06-21-2011 10:10 PM

Clutch slip?
If I am doing 65-70 in 5th gear and can it, my RPM's jump but it take a bit for the bike to get up to speed. Is this just the clutch slipping, and if so, where is my best bet to start? A simple adjustment, or do I need to dig deeper?

petejw 06-21-2011 10:13 PM

hi Ebenezer,
theres a cpl of adj for the clutch u can try,
one at the handle bars the other on the right side cover
where the cable goes into,
also engine oil plays a big part of it as well, what type
of engine oil are u using.

Ebenezer 06-21-2011 10:18 PM

The PO used 20-50 Valvoline, so I stuck with that. I have adjusted the cable at the handlebars, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

motoman 06-21-2011 10:19 PM

Adjustment FIRST behind the clutch cover, then at the cable. Specifics for that are I believe in the tech. tips. That doesn't do it, then clutch spring replacement MAY be in order. Just a hint if changing springs....EBC's are junk,IMO from many years of motoX racing. Barrnet springs ARE the way to go.....also, IMO, do NOT add an extra steel plate to the mix......changes a WHOLE lot of things besides dimensions, and is a band-aid at best. Have seen to many things go array in the moto-X world with some doing this......and those clutches take WAY more abuse than on the street, so issues that I 've sen show up in that world WILL eventually show up in the street world.....sooner or later.....again, welcome to the insanity!

petejw 06-21-2011 10:27 PM

i did a search but couldnt find anything for u,

as motorman stated, do the adj behind the clutch cover first,
loosen the cable at the handle bars,
remove the side cover that the clutch cable goes into,
loosen the lock nut, and turn the adj screw in til its lightly seated
against the pressure plate, back the scew out a quarter of a turn then
tighten the lock nut.
then adj free play at the handle bars.

if that doesnt fix the slippage then u'l have to pull the clutch assy apart
and check for spring wear and friction plate thickness.

with the engine oil it wants to be SG api rated, itl be written on the container somewhere.

motoman 06-21-2011 11:02 PM

Thanks Petejw.......could'nt remember rite-off the free-play setting for that as it's been a couple years since I'd checked or done mine.

James England 06-22-2011 05:43 AM

Mine did that when I first bought it, especially with a passenger on the bike. I replaced the clutch fibre plates and lightly sandpapered the metal plates (which get covered in a kind of burned-on glaze from the oil/friction etc. I replaced the clutch springs with 10% stronger springs. Whilst I was at it, I filed flat all the worn bits on the clutch basket and outer housing (they get little grooves in from wear).

Also, whilst you're in there, I'd replace the clutch release bearing that's on the inside of the clutch 'spider'. They are about $5 and well worth replacing. I lost a slight rumble that was there when I pulled in the clutch, after fitting the new one.

Check the three ball bearings which live in a traingular plate under the clutch release mechanism. The top ball can get rusty with emulsified oil sitting on it. They are 10mm chromed steel balls and cost next to nothing. If the chrome on yours is pitted or worn, replace them.

Having done that, my clutch has never slipped since.

WMarshy 06-22-2011 07:40 AM

Check here to see how people fixed their clutch slip...


BA80 06-22-2011 08:07 AM

Ebenezer, as stated the oil being used makes a great deal of difference when it comes to clutch slippage. Be SURE it's formulated to run with these older wet clutches. A lot of the modern formulas use friction modifiers that don't play well with these old clutches. Just because that's what the PO used dosn't mean it's the right stuff. I use Castrol 4T 20w50 motorcycle oil and it works well. A little more expensive at about $3 a quart but worth it.

Also, the Barnett heavy duty springs are usually all you need if the oil doesn't do the trick. These clutch discs hardley ever wear out unless they've been heavily abused. A new set of springs only runs about $30 shipped and are quite easily changed on the sidestand without even draining the oil. About an hours worth of work.

Here's the link for new springs......


Ebenezer 06-23-2011 09:03 PM

Thanks. I adjusted the clutch again to no avail, so I ordered the springs and will try a different oil also. Anything tips when changing the springs?

BA80 06-23-2011 09:41 PM

Be careful with the aluminum star plate that holds the springs down, they break easily if not tightened evenly.

Fit the star on there without the springs and you will see that there is a sort of piston that fits into a cylynder in the middle. The tolerences are pretty close so it will bind and cause the ears to break off the star if not tightened evenly.

Also, WMarshy posted in this thread http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26942&page=2 , post #30, that the bolts can streach and break. Check the bolts.

WMarshy 06-24-2011 10:41 AM

I also started a post on the bolt fatigue here...


Also, this tech tip has the full disassembly of the clutch incase you need more info...


Good luck! Let us know how it comes out.

Ebenezer 06-24-2011 07:22 PM

My parts won't be in until next week. Is there anything else I might want to replace when I have this thing opened up?

BA80 06-24-2011 07:26 PM

Not much of anything else in there bro'.;) Just clutch

bikerphil 06-25-2011 01:01 AM


Originally Posted by Ebenezer (Post 330959)
My parts won't be in until next week. Is there anything else I might want to replace when I have this thing opened up?

If your frictions are on the lower end of the wear tolerance, you can add an extra steel plate in the center of the pack. I just did one today like that with new springs, haven't tested it though, been raining. Lever's nice and stiff though.

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