Thread: Valve Shims
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:49 PM
CaptonZap CaptonZap is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Denver
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Originally Posted by WMarshy View Post
If your going to gring some to size I would encourage you take the hardness before you gring one and after you grind one. I would be guessing but think thes might be hardened all the way through or maybe ball peened...?
The way I see it, the surface that rides against the cam lobe is harder than the lobe itself, and when you make a jillion of something, you design it so that you only have to manipulate it once for each operation, i.e. hardening.
So you punch it out, harden it through and through, temper it to design hardness, grind the od on a centerless gringer, grind the two faces at once, mark it and ship it.
My tenth mike cannot see any crown, so, the back is as hard as the front, and the surface gringer doesn't care how hard it is, and done correctly, the temperature never comes close to a tempering temp, and the bottom side rides against the bucket, so the surface finish is immaterial, the original wearing surface is not changed, and the hardness is not changed, and research and development is fun.
I just need a bunch of cheap chims.
Thanks for the input though. If you can find a fault in my reasoning, I'm listening. CZ
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