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Old 08-08-2015, 04:26 PM
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BA80 BA80 is offline
Doctor of XSology
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 9,861
Originally Posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
I don't have anything to add to this discussion....but wanted to sorta hijack it a little with regards to ring installation....and a recent thread by RICHV that I've been posting in. I just posted about a theory I had as to why he's oil fouling his #2 cylinder. His engine was just rebuilt with honed cylinders, new rings, etc. He has great compression values in all 4, new valve seals as well, but still experiences oil fouling after about 20 or so miles of use.

I remember seeing a diagram /side view of the top 2 rings, and that they have an angled edge...the upper one to resist the compression pressure getting past it, the 2nd one positioned to help scrub/wipe the cylinders of excess oil downwards, along with the OIL rings. I remember there being stamps or indicators that showed which way was UP during installation of the rings. I was wondering if he had gotten the 2nd ring in his #2 cylinder upside down...that it wouldn't work as an oil wiper but possibly allow the oil to slip past it into the combustion chamber eventually fouling his plug?


You are absolutely correct TC. There should be a dot indicating the top of the ring. However, the point I was trying to make is chrome molly rings MUST have a perfect cylinder wall to seat properly. They are very hard metal and wear well but won't conform to irregularities easily like cast rings do.

Brand new engines and bored engines with the pistons fitted properly chrome is the way to go because it lasts longer but reringing a used engine the cast will seal up and work great. A lot of expensive experience behind that statement.

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