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Old 08-23-2010, 11:15 PM
clcorbin clcorbin is offline
XStremely XSive
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 495
My first repair method was a bust due to lack of thinking things through... Namely, that at any temperature hot enough to build enough pressure inside the float to pop it back out would also be getting WAY too close to the melting point of the solder!

Yup! The test float came a part like popcorn! It ended up in five pieces: link bar, "ring" and one "side" still attached and a separate "side".

Thankfully, I AM good at soldering (and have the right tools), so it wasn't any trouble to clean up the brass, flux things up, mount them in a jig and use hot air and silver solder to reattach everything correctly.

For the other three floats, I used the small hole + compressed air method to pup everything back out. I still need to solder up the hole, but before I do, I want to get a measurement or two from folks here.

Mainly, I need the width of each float body. When you look at them in detail, the outer side of each float is a smooth, curved piece that pretty much only has one possible smooth shape. The inside, on the other hand, is a whole different matter. It appears that it was made so they could adjust the volume of the float before a tiny hole in the center was soldered up to hold it in that position. That piece does appear to be pushed out further than it should be on all the floats.

My plan, is to find out what the "normal" thickness of the float is and then set mine to this thickness before I solder up my holes.

And as was pointed out, I'll have to "calibrate" my float levels to see if I need to put in a height adjustment into my manual. Hopefully, I can get all the floats the same volume so I have the same adjustment for all the floats.

Or does anyone want to play Archimedes and measure the volume of an unmolested brass float assembly??? That would make it MUCH easier to retune these things!
-- Clint
1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989
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