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  #1  
Old 04-25-2009, 03:24 PM
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lee_dutcher lee_dutcher is offline
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im new...now popping

hey im really new to the old school bikes but this is one i couldnt pass up.... i bought a 1979 yamaha sx11o0 specail ( black and red flake)... guy said it had a rod bearing out so i got it for 150 bux!!!!!! compleatly flawless came with all the hard bags (getting rid of) ended up being the cam chain need to be adjust too 5 min and no more chain slap but this a tick but goes away after 2500 rpm so probibly a bad lifter.. but my question is when i open her up she bogs down. it take forever to get up to speed..... i know it probibly the carbs but the man who sold it to me said he cleaned them.... i have been ridint for a couple years and this is my first cruiser..... had a 1992 gs500 for my first bike and decided to get a 95 cbr 900rr and then i had a kid so i sold it and go this gem...please give me some input and knowlege
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2009, 03:40 PM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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Welcome to the world of XS11.com, more knowledge than in an entire set of encyclopedias here. This is a really awesome bike and when running correctly, a very powerful beast! Many REALLY smart folks, not me though. I know enough to give some ideas and sometimes be dangerous, so here is my thoughts on your issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lee_dutcher View Post
no more chain slap but this a tick but goes away after 2500 rpm so probibly a bad lifter..
As far as I know, there is not a typical lifter on these engines. There is a part that is called a lifter, but it sits directly on the valve with a small shim that sits inside a recess in the "lifter". The cam presses directly onto this shim. So it is hard for anythign to go bad there. You may want to check your chain adjuster to see if you have run out of adjustment before you were REALLY tight on the chain. JAT.

Quote:
but my question is when i open her up she bogs down. it take forever to get up to speed..... i know it probibly the carbs but the man who sold it to me said he cleaned them.... i have been ridint for a couple years and this is my first cruiser..... had a 1992 gs500 for my first bike and decided to get a 95 cbr 900rr and then i had a kid so i sold it and go this gem...please give me some input and knowlege
As stated earlier, these bikes have power to jerk itself out from under you when running right so you have something going on. In my opinon the carbs are very finicky, so if the bike sat much before you bought it I would pull the carbs and go through them. Most of the parts are reusable and just need to be cleaned. BEFORE...READ BEFORE!! you clean them, check the tech tips for ALOT of good advice on what to do and more importantly what NOT to do! From personal experience, spray everything with lots of PB Blaster or the like BEFORE you try to remove the parts, and WD40 is NOT a substitute for this type of penetrating oil.

all that said, these are VERY durable bikes and I hope it will be a quick fix for you and you will have an awesome running great machine soon!
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2009, 03:52 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey Lee,

Welcome to the land of Xsives! Congrats on what is hopefully a good/great find. I hope you took some time to peruse the tech tips here BEFORE you did the cam chain tensioner adjustment procedure? There is a specific process and way of doing it, if done wrong, can lead to skipped chain/sprocket teeth, bent valves, etc.

SO...if you haven't, please take a few HOURS or so and read thru the many tech tips on here, both maintanence, repairs, mods, misc., there's a lot of info that is crucial in working on these machines without causing yourself more damage and grief!

These engines don't have lifters, they are double overhead cams, and have shim buckets and shims directly over the valve/springs and under the cam lobes. But, it could be valve shim clearances that are a touch too wide causing a tick, but could also be other things.

Okay, bike doesn't accellerate. PO cleaned the carbs...warning Will Robinson! Don't rely on someone else's work unless you know them intimately!! BTW, please edit your signature to include your year/make which you stated was a 79SF, will assist you and us later in future discussions and suggestions, there ARE differences in the machines, their carbs, ignition systems as the years and models progress!

Are you sure it's hitting on all 4 cylinders!? Take some water and spritz it on the exhaust pipes after getting it running, and see if all 4 sizzle, or if some only dribble!? Depending on which ones, specifically pairs will lead you to more diagnostics.

Cylinders 1-2 and 3-4 are linked by fuel supplies. 1-4 and 2-3 are linked by the ignition components.

Also, a better description of any possible mods done to the bike, ie. Indy filters vs. OEM airbox, stock 4-2 pipes with crossover, or aftermarket, 4-2 or 4-1's. Does it still have the Octopus fuel valve assembly? Don't know what that is....it's in the tech tips!!

Are the fuel and vacuum lines routed properly, again, diagrams on this are in the tech tips! Be sure the vacuum hose from the left engine crank cover is going to the metal port on the #2 carb BODY, not any of the intake manifold synch ports.

The PU coils are a common failing point on these things, depending on the water spritz will lead you to determine if further investigaton of these is warranted...see tech tips in Repairs for this info!

Does it still have the OEM ignition coils and Ballast resistor, or aftermarket coils? Does it still have the OEM glass style fuse box, another weak point, again info and how to obtain a replacement using ATCO fuses are found....
YEP, in the tech tips!

I'm not trying to prevent you from posting and asking for help, but MANY of the common problems newbies come across have been well documented and can save you lots of time waiting fro someone to reply to you vs. being able to quickly find it amongst the tips.

Also, don't SOAK the carb bodies in carb cleaner IF you decide to reclean them yourselves...BTW, how did the PO clean them??
Okay, that'll get you started!
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  #4  
Old 04-25-2009, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
Hey Lee,

Welcome to the land of Xsives! Congrats on what is hopefully a good/great find. I hope you took some time to peruse the tech tips here BEFORE you did the cam chain tensioner adjustment procedure? There is a specific process and way of doing it, if done wrong, can lead to skipped chain/sprocket teeth, bent valves, etc.

SO...if you haven't, please take a few HOURS or so and read thru the many tech tips on here, both maintanence, repairs, mods, misc., there's a lot of info that is crucial in working on these machines without causing yourself more damage and grief!

!
i have clymes manual took the cover off and tuned the crank till it lined up with c then lossended the came stoppe bolt and the other one to and tighted them said it would automaticly adjust....gave it an oil and filter change.... otherwise compleatly stock airbox 4-2 exaust.....
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  #5  
Old 04-25-2009, 04:42 PM
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That tick may be a slightly sticking valve. Does it regularly fart in the pipes when constantly applying throttle? Ticking can also be caused by a plug wire shorting to ground, by bad fuel/air mixture, or by a leak in the exhaust system (like a bad crush gasket at the header), or maybe other things.
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  #6  
Old 04-25-2009, 05:33 PM
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lee_dutcher lee_dutcher is offline
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what do you fart in the pipes.... when i turn it off somtimes smoke will come out the pipes
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  #7  
Old 04-25-2009, 10:10 PM
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DGXSER DGXSER is offline
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I believe Skids was asking if you get a popping, or backfiring into the exhaust.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2009, 04:18 PM
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no backfireing...... also i got spart on the left side but seem to get no fuel out of the 1 and 2 carb would this be caused by a sticking float.....
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  #9  
Old 04-27-2009, 05:55 PM
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lee_dutcher lee_dutcher is offline
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figuered you havet seen my bike yet so here they are...







http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=1903139



not bad for 150 huh

Last edited by lee_dutcher; 04-27-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-27-2009, 06:35 PM
old_bartender old_bartender is offline
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Nice Ride!
Think of keeping the bags, you might want them on later. Great for "rain gear, leathers and BEER. But if you want to sell them i Need a set,let me Know. You are a short ride away
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  #11  
Old 04-27-2009, 06:38 PM
tarzan tarzan is offline
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Welcome Lee_Dutcher,
Nice lookin bike.a special too.
Have fun.Rick
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  #12  
Old 04-27-2009, 07:15 PM
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lee_dutcher lee_dutcher is offline
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got all 4 to fire had a gasss line pinched... theres allot of fuel lines coming out of there... but think it might need a cleaning and the floats set because it will not idel unless the inrichment thing is pulled all the way out and still feels like im laging when it comes to power....and now my signals and rpm gauge dont work....anyone help me plz... oh and thanks for the comments on the bike
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2009, 11:24 PM
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DiverRay DiverRay is offline
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You need to read the thread on "neglected bikes"http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=792 first. The lights and tach are probably a charging problem. This is usually bad connections.(read corrosion)
I suspect you will need to spend about 10 hours going through the bike to fix most of the little things.
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  #14  
Old 04-28-2009, 05:17 PM
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it only been sitin for about 8 months... but i did change all the fluids, brake pads look new... and air filter dont look to bad but might need changing.....about the filter would i need to change jets, mains or piolets? thanks for you fast input
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  #15  
Old 04-28-2009, 07:31 PM
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TopCatGr58 TopCatGr58 is offline
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Hey Lee,

If you are just going to put in an aftermarket air filter in the OEM air box, then you most likely will NOT need to rejet for it, I can tell from the photos that you have STOCK PIPES as well.

Have you read the tech tips, your turn signals and tach issues are part of the electrical connections needing cleaning that we suggested. Pay attention to the 3 big white connectors behind the main fuseblock panel, can corrode, even melt, causing no or poor charging, and hence, poor tach performance.
T.C.
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