Cam Tension-er /cam timing ?

[guycom]

Hi i removed the cam chain tensioner sealed it and replaced it at the same setting is that ok or do i need to do the adjustment procedure? Also i put a new seal on the crank behind the altinator so if any one by me 07760 nj needs to use the puller tool no problem.....thanks again for you'r help

[Danny Crawdad]

From all the horror stories I have read on here you might as well do the adjustment procedure and be damn sure that you didn't skip a few teeth.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Guy,

Hopefully you had it on the centerstand. Secondly hope there wasn't too much slack in the chain to begin with, but if you didn't have the crank in the "C" position when you removed the CCT, then it's possible that the chain may have slipped down around the crankshaft sprocket and skipped a tooth!

Would highly suggest that you take the valve cover off, pull the plugs, and then slowly rotate the engine clockwise as looking at the timing plate, and stop at the "T" =TDC mark, and then verify that the alignment dots on the cams are at the pointers on the cam bearing caps. If either cam dot is a tooth or so distance away, then the cam chain has slipped a tooth, and you'll need to review the manual for the details on how to put the engine and cams back in time.

If the dots do line up, then follow the directions in the CCT adjustment procedure, rotate the engine a couple of times CW and the slowly stop at the "C" mark, then you can loosen the CCT lock bolt nut, and then lock bolt to allow the plunger to set against the inner tensioner arm, then relock the bolt, and then the lock nut to the proper specs torque.

A review of the "got defeated" thread will show you info about the possible horrors when working with the CCT.

T.C.

[cywelchjr]

Yep, as TC said, one of the dangers when removing the CCT for ANY reason is that the chain can skip one of more teeth when you do so and you can bend valves and then your talking at a minimum replacing valves, or replacing a head or the entire engine .

Hopefully you were lucky and everything is fine, but be sure and follow the steps outlined by TC and make sure that things are OK before you press the starter button or in ANY way try to start the engine.

[guycom]

Sice everything else is sealed I might as well do the valve cover also..one step forward one step back... Thanks for your replys

[skids]

If you remove the valve cover, it would be a good opportunuty to check the valve clearances. If you do remove the tensioner for any reason, (like TC said) the timing mark should be on the C mark. If you need to rotate the crank to get it there, don't do this with the tensioner removed. If you even suspect that you slipped the chain, pull spark plugs and rotate the crank with a wrench slowly. If you feel resistance like valve-to-piston contact, just stop right there. The only safe way at that point is to release the cam keepers ( to retract the valves) and follow special instructions to realign the cams with the marks.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Before I did my valve adjustment, I did a CCT adjustment following the Clymers guild, worked fine. When I did the valve adjustment, I checked the chain for slack at many different crank positions, there was no slack I am guessing that my OEM CCT is working fine, is it really worth changing to a auto CCT on my bike Don't like taking chance's I don't need to

[cywelchjr]

Originally Posted by XS1100_OEM4ME

Before I did my valve adjustment, I did a CCT adjustment following the Clymers guild, worked fine. When I did the valve adjustment, I checked the chain for slack at many different crank positions, there was no slack I am guessing that my OEM CCT is working fine, is it really worth changing to a auto CCT on my bike Don't like taking chance's I don't need to

What worries me is that every time I do the CCT adjustment I have a percentage chance that the stupid thing will strip out. Fortunately I have two spares on my original and spare motors, but I still will have to change it at that point, which means going to all the work at that point of changing it, and my original does leak (the one on the original motor that is). So it's on my list of things to do, but not way up there since the budget is kinda tight right now. But that said, mines been doing just fine for 30,000 miles now, so I'm not getting freaked out about it.

[bikerphil]

I have an auto tensioner on my SF and it's great. They don't leak or slip. It takes the adjustment interval out of the equation. On my F, I have the manual tensioner modified with a bolt threaded in the front so it will never slip again. The problem with the factory tensioner is you can't tighten the lock down bolt tight enough sometimes to hold her in place without stripping/cracking the unit. 30+ year old metal fatigue doesn't help either.

[motoman]

OEM4ME, I'd seriously be looking to change that tensioner out for the auto tension one. The problem with the stock one, besides the occassional housing getting cracked from over zealous folks is number one: it's a poor excuse for a set screw(not made correctly on the retaining side. The second thing is over the years with adjustments being done, the marks left on the flat serfice of the adjuster shaft allows the shaft to "walk" back outward following into the previous adjustment mark left. The other issue is it will NOT hold in alot of instances under a hard de-cel. I can attest to ALL of the above personnally! In fact, the last time it gave me a problem, the bike was on the center stand after the adjustment, started it and give it a quick blip of the throttle which apparently caused load on that front-side pushing adjuster shaft back some.......loose enough to cause chain to slap case. Likely could of been catostrophic if I had been riding it at the time. Also I had previously filed the flat portion of the adjuster shaft removing the old marks.......go figure. Follow the procedure for adjusting the old one, remove it, toss it, take auto-tensioner apart, install housing, put shaft and spring in then install spring tensioner bolt......takes 5-10 min. and sure beats the cost of a top-end....and that would be the LEAST it would cost. Aside from all that, guarentee the bike WILL run smoother when the cams are in time ALL the time having tension on the cam chain ALL the time. Hope that helps answer your choice.....tick.....tick........tick..

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Did you use a self tapping bolt into the end of the CCT, or did you dissasemble and tap the CCT Sounds like a good fix, easy and sure not to slip

Originally Posted by bikerphil

I have an auto tensioner on my SF and it's great. They don't leak or slip. It takes the adjustment interval out of the equation. On my F, I have the manual tensioner modified with a bolt threaded in the front so it will never slip again. The problem with the factory tensioner is you can't tighten the lock down bolt tight enough sometimes to hold her in place without stripping/cracking the unit. 30+ year old metal fatigue doesn't help either.

[bikerphil]

Took it apart, used a 3/8-16 tap, no drilling required, sloth some RTV on the threads to keep the oil from seeping. Use a lock down nut. As for old plunger lock bolt on the side, I just snug it down and lock it in place. Be careful not to over tighten. Also, follow all instructions removing and replacing the tensioner so not to bend any valves. As you can see the POS still leaks, not where the mod is though.

[Ebenezer]

I just bought an auto cct off of ebay. Any tips before I install it? Anything I need to worry about?

[petejw]

ive done the same mod as phil for the tensioner,
i just used a bolt and a rubber o ring behind the washer,
have done it on 3 of my engines,
the side bolt in the pic does nothing more than preventing oil from coming out.
and u just need to be careful not to overtighten the chain.
workes really well.

[Bikerbear]

"ive done the same mod as phil for the tensioner,
i just used a bolt and a rubber o ring behind the washer,
have done it on 3 of my engines,
the side bolt in the pic does nothing more than preventing oil from coming out.
and u just need to be careful not to overtighten the chain.
workes really well." How much tension do you use to insure you don't overtighten the chain?