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  #1  
Old 03-03-2012, 11:25 PM
CWLindeman CWLindeman is offline
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Angry Carburetor Rebuild - Butterflies stuck

I was amazed to get this 79XS1100SF with only 6K miles. However, It hasnt been run since 1985, maybe 1984. It was stored with fuel in the tank, so I undertook the rebuild, along with corroded electrical, but enough about that.

On to the issue:
I've managed to painstakingly work out all the varnish, which practically painted the thing shut. The rebuild kit is here (ordered from eBay). Now my only issue is that the butterflies wouldn't open at all. I've sprayed the hell out of it with PB Blaster and worked it pretty hard up and down. Now they move with much less force, but the return spring is still not shutting the valves.
Is there somewhere specific that I should be lubricating; or should I keep working it back and forth? I've never taken a carb apart until now and I think I've done pretty good with this one, but the sticking throttle is the only thing that's really keeping me from getting this on the road (and waiting for the new TCI to come in- scheduled Monday or Tuesday).

More specifically, the throttle lever (where the cable attaches) is what I'm referring to.
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:18 AM
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Schming Schming is offline
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Watch how much PB you use on this area of the carbs as there are rubber butterfly shaft seals that may not withstand the harsness of the solvents.
You may want to try some silicon spray lubricant. HTH
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1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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  #3  
Old 03-04-2012, 02:47 AM
SFerinTEXAS SFerinTEXAS is offline
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The thought off possibly unmolested 79 special carbs makes me drool with envy.

In regards to your specific question I suppose carb spray would be my suggestion. Having busted my cherry on these carbs a long time ago ,with less than stellar results I must say, I hope you've done due research on this site on the subject. Will greatly increase the odds of successful results .

My approach to carb rebuilding now bears little resemblance to my first attempt. I wish this site had existed then. Good Luck
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2012, 06:53 AM
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Try soaking them in some fresh gasoline. Gasoline will dissolve the varnish.

Your other choice is to further disassemble by removing the plates and pulling the shafts out.

Gas should work. Choose a well ventilated area away from any pilot lights or anything like that.
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Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2012, 12:37 PM
CWLindeman CWLindeman is offline
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I am unable to get the rail that holds the carbs together off of them to get to all the slides. I'll try the silicone first, then, if that doesn't work, I"ll soak in gasoline (with the diaphragm assembly still apart).

When it comes to the slide needle attached to the diaphragm assembly, how do I remove the slide needle, so that I may replace it (one of them is loose)?

This site has been a wealth of information. 2 days until this bike is whole again. I can't wait to be back on the road, even though it seems a late snow is rearing its ugly head.

I'll be sure to add some pics when I've reassembled the bike. Other than a little oxidation on the chrome, its in impeccable condition.

Last edited by CWLindeman; 03-04-2012 at 12:39 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2012, 12:48 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWLindeman View Post
I am unable to get the rail that holds the carbs together off of them to get to all the slides. I'll try the silicone first, then, if that doesn't work, I"ll soak in gasoline (with the diaphragm assembly still apart).

When it comes to the slide needle attached to the diaphragm assembly, how do I remove the slide needle, so that I may replace it (one of them is loose)?

This site has been a wealth of information. 2 days until this bike is whole again. I can't wait to be back on the road, even though it seems a late snow is rearing its ugly head.

I'll be sure to add some pics when I've reassembled the bike. Other than a little oxidation on the chrome, its in impeccable condition.
Use some heat to help remove the screws that hold the carbs onto the rail.

The slide needles should move some. There is a spring sitting on top of the needle to allow some movement. So it is the 3 that do not move that are gummed up and need the attention. There is a C clip down inside the slide tube that needs to be removed and that will allow the needles to be removed.
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1978 XS1100E
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#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2012, 12:59 PM
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Nate is right about the needles, they should all be loose and you should be able to pull them down a bit from the diaphragm slide and they will be pulled back in by the springs.

You shouldn't have to separate the carbs unless your going to pull the butterfly shafts out. Just strip them down and put all the bodies in the gas all together. It won't hurt anything.

Work the butterfies while your soaking them and they should loosen up and wash out the varnish.

As I said before, do this in a well ventalated area away from anything that could possibly ignite the fumes. Outside would be best.

Don't want you burnin' down bro'.
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Greg

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:11 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA80 View Post
they should all be loose and you should be able to pull them down a bit from the diaphragm slide and they will be pulled back in by the springs.
Now I could be wrong here BUT I think that the early carbs the spring goes on top of the needle and the spring pushes the needle down and not up.
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:15 PM
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BA80 BA80 is offline
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Your wrong.
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Greg

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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  #10  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:22 PM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA80 View Post
Your wrong.
Prove it to me
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μολὼν λαβέ

1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:30 PM
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BA80 BA80 is offline
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Well Nate, I have 8 slides in my carb parts bin that tell me your wrong and 2 banks on the bikes I have that tell me your wrong and one extra bank of carbs I rebuilt that tell me your wrong. All of the 78-79 style.

Prove them wrong.
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Greg

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2012, 09:56 PM
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Rasputin Rasputin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natemoen View Post
Prove it to me
Not proof but yup you are wrong. No smileys on edit function sucks
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:36 AM
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natemoen natemoen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasputin View Post
Not proof but yup you are wrong. No smileys on edit function sucks
This was the thread that made me fund the one last Issue that was the cause of my problems. Those springs being on the wrong side of the needl made the bike run like crap! And now she runs great!
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Nathan
KD9ARL

μολὼν λαβέ

1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

Theodore Roosevelt
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2012, 01:55 PM
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jetmechmarty jetmechmarty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWLindeman View Post
I am unable to get the rail that holds the carbs together off of them to get to all the slides.

I'll be sure to add some pics when I've reassembled the bike. Other than a little oxidation on the chrome, its in impeccable condition.


The impact driver is what you need to remove the rail. Replace the cross point screws with allen head screws.

I look forward to the pics. Go after the chrome with a wad of aluminum foil and some water. Follow up with chrome polish.
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  #15  
Old 03-04-2012, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmechmarty View Post
The impact driver is what you need to remove the rail. Replace the cross point screws with allen head screws.

+1 on that. I replaced all those stupid phillips heads with allens. They had it going good with the allens in the cases and then went and put phillips in the carbs.
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Greg

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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