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Old 05-28-2015, 01:05 PM
BowlingSS BowlingSS is offline
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Cam Chain Adjuster

Just noticed during the topend overhaul the cam chain adjuster was cracked. I had some spare parts but I noticed the one that was cracked had the hole on the outer end glued over with something. The spare one I had did not have anything over this hole. Should I JB weld this hole? Will it leak if I do nothing?
Am I making any sense?

Thanks guys. I am getting close to cranking her up. Just got my one and only shim I needed (the others I had) and have to align the cams, bolt the top cover on. Install the cleaned cards and the pipes and I will be able to see if the baby will start.

Thanks for this great forum.
Bill
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:19 PM
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DiverRay DiverRay is offline
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Check this link: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35501
This IS what I've done to all my bikes. Makes it a LOT easier IMHO.
There IS a seal that goes in the end of the adjuster, and it will leak a lot of oil if it's not sealed.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:49 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS View Post
Just noticed during the topend overhaul the cam chain adjuster was cracked. I had some spare parts but I noticed the one that was cracked had the hole on the outer end glued over with something. The spare one I had did not have anything over this hole. Should I JB weld this hole? Will it leak if I do nothing?
Am I making any sense?

Thanks guys. I am getting close to cranking her up. Just got my one and only shim I needed (the others I had) and have to align the cams, bolt the top cover on. Install the cleaned cards and the pipes and I will be able to see if the baby will start.

Thanks for this great forum.
Bill
Makes perfect sense! Getting internally REALLY clean with Brakleen or similar, JB Weld will work to seal.......for just a short period of time...a temp fix at best......BTDT.(got two and only need one as a paper weight if ya' want it)
Reality is, not worth messin' with as the 'set' bolt won't hold shaft staionary on a hard decel.....wa-la, floppy out of adjustment chain..instantly(you'll hear it), along with a bit rough idling with cams slightly out of time.
Your best bet is to step back, an extra few days of patience, and pick up a used auto cam chain tentioner.....tons of Yammy app. that work, first choice being one from an XV series(V-4 Venture).
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:49 PM
mack mack is offline
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if you want a

New oem one. Pm me
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:05 PM
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skids skids is offline
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As critical as the tensioner is to prevent major engine damage, I would replace it. I have repaired the threads with a helicoil, but I would toss it if the body is cracked.
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Old 05-29-2015, 12:46 AM
motoman motoman is offline
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Originally Posted by skids View Post
As critical as the tensioner is to prevent major engine damage, I would replace it. I have repaired the threads with a helicoil, but I would toss it if the body is cracked.
Toss it anyways. That set bolt is bout all you can call it. By design of the slider shaft portion, Yammy could of at LEAST used an actual 'set screw', which is specificly designed at bottom being concave in nature, giving a sharp leading edge circle at bottom of threads. Any occassional hard riding with a couple of hard decels WILL kick that shaft back to the previously dented mark. Trust me, I got two on the shelf, one original and one a replacement. The marks in both flat surfaces of shafts barely cover more than an eighth inch, five thirty-seconds at best. 29yrs. of age when purchased, and still fearless, 56K and 34yrs. with that being minimal chain pin wear....sorry, not happenin'. The last straw was on center stand, immediatley after adjustment done. Started up and let idle a few minutes, then a couple quick mediocore 4K revs........slap-slap-slap goes the chain.
And finially........well documented of shaft slipping on the first testing a particular bike 'rag' did back in either fall '77 or spring '78.
Your bike.....your choice of course.
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2015, 06:02 AM
BowlingSS BowlingSS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skids View Post
As critical as the tensioner is to prevent major engine damage, I would replace it. I have repaired the threads with a helicoil, but I would toss it if the body is cracked.
I have a replacement. I was not going to fix the broken one. The replacement does not have a seal on the end. Should I get a seal or just JB weld that hole where the seal goes?

Thanks.
Bill
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:15 AM
Prisoner6 Prisoner6 is offline
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When testing the '78E, Cycle magazine had this to say:

"Our test bike's cam chain loosened, noisily, before we'd ridden 500 miles and in adjusting the tensioner we found a potential point of confusion.
The adjustment requires only loosening and retightening a nut, but the tensioner is on the engine's forward side, and we thought, briefly, that we might be
dealing with a 'tight-side' device and would have to rotate the engine backwards to move the chain slack in the right direction.
Wrong: the Eleven's engine rotates backwards, and that's why the tensioner is on the cylinder block's forward side."


Bill, the stock CCT is a known weak point on these bikes ... many here can attest to that.

So ... IMHO, you should look at Ray's link in post #2, get yourself an ACCT from a V-max or Venture (they are usually readily available on Ebay), install the ACCT on the bike ...

And be done with it! Then you won't have to worry about it for a long time to come.

As Forrest Gump said, "One less thing."

I you do decide to go with the ACCT, just make sure you follow the installation procedure to the letter.

Anyway, that's my $.02
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Last edited by Prisoner6; 05-29-2015 at 07:20 AM.
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2015, 08:46 AM
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IanDMacDonald IanDMacDonald is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prisoner6 View Post

As Forrest Gump said, "One less thing."


"And, that's all I have to say about that"
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2015, 10:15 AM
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Radioguylogs Radioguylogs is offline
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The correct seal is still available from the dealer.

Cost is $4.35.


Partzilla.com

PLUG, SPECL SHAPE

90338-14004-00
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  #11  
Old 05-29-2015, 03:47 PM
BowlingSS BowlingSS is offline
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I just ordered auto one off of ebay for a Raptor 660. Should work at lot better than the stock one.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Bill
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:56 PM
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jetmechmarty jetmechmarty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS View Post
I just ordered auto one off of ebay for a Raptor 660. Should work at lot better than the stock one.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Bill
Good move! Since you have to replace it anyway. If you need help, I might be able to arrange it. It's a fairly easy job, but if you make a mistake, you get bent valves. Someone has detailed instructions on here someplace.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:03 PM
motoman motoman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BowlingSS View Post
I just ordered auto one off of ebay for a Raptor 660. Should work at lot better than the stock one.

Thanks everyone for the help.

Bill
Anyone that stays locked in place is better than stock. Some have even oped for making a threaded front mounting plate with a long bolt and nut for locking in place(tottally manual), but that is for the track crowd who could care less if undue wear occurs from overtightening. In that world, reputation and prize dollars overrule loosing the race due to a minor cost auto adjuster springed catch failure. But as you know, there are those out there, and will always be them that think if it's good for the race crowd, it's surely gotta be a 'go fast' item for the everyday rider.

Good on you for opting for the CCAT.
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Last edited by motoman; 05-29-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2015, 06:49 AM
BowlingSS BowlingSS is offline
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Got my auto adjuster and the bolt on the end is very tight. I am going to have to put this in a vice to get that bolt loose.

Bill
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:27 AM
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IanDMacDonald IanDMacDonald is offline
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Mmhmm. That, or install it in the bike with the two SHCS's, and loosen it that way.
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2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.
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