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Old 12-04-2011, 03:29 PM
tonyg-5386 tonyg-5386 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 25
Tygon 3/16" ID fuel hose

Hi Guys,

After reading up on fuel line replacement suggestions I decided to go with tygon 3/16" ID clear yellow f-4040-a line. I just got done trying to work this fuel line onto the petcocks of my 79 Special and there is no way in hell it's going to fit. I even put a little oil in the end of the petcocks and tried to work the line on but there is no way it's going on. I'm sure glad I tried it before I tore all the existing fuel lines off. I knew it would be a bit difficult to get it on but I even snipped 2 small vertical slits into the line to open it up but it won't go on. Feeling kinda dumb here. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:40 PM
bikerphil's Avatar
bikerphil bikerphil is offline
Master of XSology
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Broward County, S. Flori-DUH
Posts: 7,552
Use 1/4" or maybe try heat up the 3/16" with a heat gun.

79F - owned since '89 - FJ fork mod, solo seat mod, Dyna 3Ω's, 14MM M/C (168K miles)
79SF - every day rider, solo seat mod, Brembo 16MM M/C, Accel 3Ω's, Supertrapp (125K miles)

"If it ain't broke, modify it"

30 year XS11 owner

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Old 12-04-2011, 05:46 PM
BA80's Avatar
BA80 BA80 is offline
Doctor of XSology
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tulsa, Ok
Posts: 9,861
1/4" will be loose and leak if not properly clamped. 3/16 will fit but it does have to be warm and flexible to get it onto the fittings.

In most cases the smaller line won't even need a clamp but use them anyway.

Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.

― Albert Einstein

80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

The list changes.
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:11 PM
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Danny Crawdad Danny Crawdad is offline
XStremely XSive
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 239
All my fuel lines are 3/16" Tygon -- it will go on, I promise, and it will stay on without clamps. It is actually pretty hard to even pull off once it's on, I have just cut it the past few times I've re-plumbed because it was next to impossible to pull off once it is in place. But, by all means, use a clamp or zip tie if it doesn't seem to be as tight on yours, just make sure it doesn't dig or cut into the soft line.

As for putting them on, I usually wet the end of the line a little (by which I mean I spit on it) before slipping it on. It takes some time, but it does work. It took about 15 minutes to re-plumb both petcocks on my bike (no octy, though).

LOVE the Tygon, by the way, well worth the minimal time and effort. Looks cool, and is everything-resistant. Very tough. I also carry about 3 feet of the stuff rolled up in my tool kit just in case. Bought a 25' length on Amazon for $1/ft six months ago, although prices look like they have gone up since.
XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.

Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 12-04-2011 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:12 PM
Ebenezer Ebenezer is offline
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hawley, MN
Posts: 67
I had the same problem, but once you get a method down it will work just fine. I put clamps on as well, but like the other guys said I can't even get the stuff off now. I tried tonight and the nipple on the petcock actually broke before the gas line came off. Now I'm looking for a replacement. That's what I get for working on it in Minnesota in December in an unheated garage.

1981 XS1100SH
K&N filter
Spade fuse block
Barnett Springs
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:40 PM
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Danny Crawdad Danny Crawdad is offline
XStremely XSive
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 239
Yeah, I should have posted that -- I actually wouldn't even try to pull the stuff off if I could help it, I also pulled out the nipple from a petcock once. I was able to get it pressed back in with minimal trouble, but I wouldn't chance it again. Speaks to the perfect fit, I guess . Now I just cut the line off, and use a knife to slit what remains on the nipple and pull it off.

TonyG, I definitely wouldn't hesitate to hit it briefly with a hair dryer or heat gun on low to soften it up. I can see it being really difficult to stretch on if it's really cold. I lubricate, then slide half of the line over, and then rotate and push the line to slide the rest of the line over the lip. Once it catches on, it's just a matter of pushing it over the barbs.
XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT

Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:10 AM
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CatatonicBug CatatonicBug is offline
Master of XSology
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Clinton, UT
Posts: 6,117
I use the 1/4" and it fits just fine. I do put clamps on it for extra security though. I'd rather have the option of taking it off for maintenance tasks.
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:53 PM
Poprock Poprock is offline
XSive Maximus
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 594
I use the 3/16, no clamps. A little WD40 helps it slip on. Sometimes I stretch it over a needle nose pliers then slip it on fast. It can also be held with pliers close to the end and forced on the petcock. Lube helps. Sticks well once on, better than anything else out there IMHO. Worth the effort for sure.
1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.
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